Friday, December 4, 2009

Swatch Thursday Rework: Morning Dew (aka Estonian Flower or Star)

Third time is a charm. Stitch definition is more clear than the one before, in Size 6 needles and with different placement of beads.


Agree?

It's gonna be a very hectic weekend...Christmas Parade, Lego Robotic Tournament, Urban Craft Fair...Enjoy yours.

Happy crafting and keep those creative juices running!

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Swatch Thursday: Estonian Flower or Star

Estonia...land of reserved northern beauty on the Baltic seashore. Estonian lace. I’m fascinated to learn that it isn't a centuries-old tradition as I had once thought, rather a clever attempt by women of the village of Hapsalu, Estonia, to cash in on tourist trade that arrived in their town after hot springs were discovered there in late 19th century.

Estonian knitting is very particular in its techniques and patterns. Nancy Bush popularized Estonian knitting techniques, i.e. nupp, in her book Folk Knitting in Estonia: A Garland of Symbolism, Tradition and Technique. This book describes some very unusual knitting techniques in color and texture knitting.

I’ve been ruminating some design ideas that I’m not prepared to detail yet. However, here is one for SWATCH THURSDAY.

YARN: 800 yards, 3.88 oz, of Handspun Foxglove Merino and Silk
NEEDLE: 7
GAUGE: 91 stitches/40 Rows = 14"x6" non-stretched 17"x7" stretched

As shown in the swatch, the nine-stitch-nupp is used as starting point of a three-petaled flower bud(some calls it a star). Each petal is three-stitch wide. The base expands from three to nine stitches. Decreases are gradually made over next three odd-number rows. Buds are tiled such that the increases in one repeat occurs with decreases in next repeat so the fabric doesn’t buckle (actually slightly until blocked.) It's intensive and dominant. There will be no need to put next to that another lace pattern--not sure if I am happy with the final result yet.

I am in search of Leili Reiman’s Pitsilised Koekirjad to add to my private library collection and further my ethnic study...if you have one for sale at an affordable price, let me know.

Happy crafting and keep those creative juices running!

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Saddled Aran Cardigan Coat

Don’t know if anyone is still out there, but I had to proclaim: I am finally finished with the cardigan! The Celtic beauty of Aran knit is globally renowned. Each Aran stitch has its own meaning and carries with it good luck for the wearer--from the diamond stitch that promises success and prosperity, to the cable stitch symbolizing safety and good luck. Nothing keeps me warmer than something that's been hand-knitted. And, this coat is no different using a traditional pattern to continue a long Celtic custom. The wool blend used in this hand-knitted lumber gives it a luxurious softness and next-to-the skin comfort.

This was a great learning experience for me. All the obstacles I encountered definitely did build character and helped me grow as a knitter. I need to knit small, easy things for a while now, but I would not hesitate to begin another challenge like this in the near future...after finishing up all the holiday knits. I will also say that even though I wore my unfinished sweater to the club and my favorite bookshop yesterday, I got many compliments from total strangers. (Aren’t crafters the best folks?)

PROJECT SPECS
CAST ON:
November 13, 2009
BIND OFF: November 28, 2009 (Approximately 36 hours, over 9 days, in knitting and finishing time.)
PATTERN: Aran Cardigan by Kerry Ferguson from TWO STICKS and A STRING: Knitting Designs Inspired by Nature
MATERIAL: 1576 yards, weighed 24 ounces/8 skeins, of Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Brilliant Purple (147) ($3.39/skein)
EMBELLISHMENTS: La Mode Buttons Hook 1321, Style 44745 ($2.50 2-pack)
NEEDLES: Sizes 3, 5, 6, 7, and 8.
MEASUREMENTS:
Neck to cuff 23.5"; armhole to cuff 12.5"; 7" cuff; 40" Chest; 36" waist; 40" hem; 29" shoulder to hem (Still have yet to decide if I should block out especially the bulge in front near the hem)

MODIFICATIONS:
1. Slipped first stitch of each row. K1B ribbing on every other row (instead of every row.)
2. Italian tubular cast on in Size 7 needles (instead of 6) and knit 5.5" 1x1 ribbing for collar.
3. Misread length of the piece for neck/shoulder. Switched to Size 8 needles, reattached and knit front length correctly to 10" saddle between picking up stitches for front and rest of body pieces. Completed 2.5 patterned-repeats of Double Wave Cable. I should have listened to my intuition and stayed with Size 7 needles for this section as the shoulders are a tad broad for a petite frame.
4. Knit both front pieces 2-at-a-time to 8.5" length from ribbing (should've stopped at 7" for a tailor-fit.) Completed 2.5 patterned-repeats of Double Wave Cable ending Row 8 (adjust other motif rows appropriately.) Somehow, I missed a row in a panel. Instead of ripping, I added a row by applying Intarsia technique to the appropriate panel. Amazingly, it works!
5. Stuck on pick-up stitches between salvage and shoulder edges for a while. After putting the project down for a day, I gave it a go based on speculation of how it should proceed.
6. Picked up stitches for back piece. Found a typo on set-up instruction for Aran Diamonds with Moss Stitch motif, instead of 15 stitches, it should read 13 stitches. Once set-up row is in placed in respective portions, knitting is a breeze/flowing smoothly. No surprise.
7. When back piece reaches same length as front pieces, switched to Size 7 needles and picked up 20 stitches on both side of the saddles the second time (instead for 38) raglan sleeves--knit 2-at-a-time in a round.
8. On 5th Row from sleeve pick-up, started 4-stitch *(instead of 2)* sleeve decrease--between double moss panels--every 4th row until it reaches the elbow. Then, decrease per pattern. The sleeves are tapered and comfortably fitted. Tubular bind off made the cuff ideally springy.
9. A few more DUH moments...I had redo four Wave Cable panels--front and back--one missing 2 purls from the start; then realized the cables weren't mirrored!!! Knitted again only the panels instead of ripping back to collar piece...that would be unthinkable, unspeakable! I demonstrated to our Knit-Up group how it's done and they are not ready for the trick yet :D If I make this again, I'd make the cables intertwined as they truly would in Celtic knots.
10. Switched to Size 3 needles to knit front/back body in one piece when it reaches 12" from armhole to give waist shaping. (Also decided to unravel both sleeves with 76 pick-up stitches from cast on at this point as it's just way way too baggy!)
11. Switched to Size 7 needles after 2" of waist-shaping. Knit rest per pattern for long version. Tubular bind off.
11. For the buttoned bands: Picked up from slipped stitches and knitted two, on third slipped stitch, knit front and back out of one. Otherwise, the band would be very tight (ask me how I knew!)
12. Replaced all ten original buttons with La Mode 1321-44745 as they were too small for the button holes.
COMMENT: Quick knit for an elaborate cable sweater coat. Very enjoyable. Meditative. I find I can interrupt it for small projects and get back to it easily. NOTE TO SELF: Read through the pattern completely at least once before casting on.

I love the overall look, knit from the collar down, seamless, and the inside pocket--the pattern and fit were the main challenges. Bodies come in such varied shapes and sizes that it’s hard for a designer to design one sweater that’s going to fit everyone. It’s more likely than not to have to make SOME kind of change to a pattern in order to make it fit me.

Next up is an heirloom blanket for an adorable three-year-old princess who will be moving away in less than two weeks. She asked for deep purple and elephants. The designing aspect took a little time...but it's coming along. I can't wait to show you.

Happy crafting and keep those creative juices running!

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Another Reclaim Success: Silk and Mohair

One of the best parts of recycling yarn is finding the sweater, right? I’m unable to get the fantastic deals some folks in other places; but I’m still happy to have the thrill of the kill. Like last cashmere sweater, this came undone easily--less than an hour later, I got myself a whopping 8-oz of sumptuous, silken, delicate, cushy upcycled silky yarns:
with very little waste...

Another great Goodwill score for $2.99.

I feel another urge coming...trolling for more high-end, quality sweaters!

Happy crafting and keep those creative juices running!

Monday, November 30, 2009

Swatch Thursday: Miter

It's better late than never...besides, Thursday was Thanksgiving and I had much better things to attend to than swatching!

Meet HARLEQUIN from Jane Slicer-Smith's spectacular new book SWING, SWAGGER, DRAPE: Knit the Colors of Australia. I first saw the book at Sock Summit in Portland and wanted instantly to make every coat. My pre-ordered copy finally made it to the mailbox last week while I was away for the holiday. The impatient me ended up with two copies now since I bought one at Borders in Eugene!!!!!

YARN: Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool 63-285 Plum
NEEDLE: 4.0 mm
GAUGE: 6" miter from point to point

To achieve miter gauge the pattern called for and a better drape desired, I went down a size to 3.5 mm. Mission accomplished.

This is a gorgeous, flattering, chic coat. As much as I love a black and white harlequin fabric, nipped in with one button at the waist and fitted--I am opting for some colors in my swagger that will look lovely with a jumper dress, leggings and boots--very Kate Moss!

Here is the newly acquired stash to pick from for a swagger. Any suggestion?

I have to admit...swatch and I are like water and oil. There are many instances that I heart to skip this process and go right into knitting. I am working hard to integrate...

Happy crafting and keep those creative juices running!

Sunday, November 29, 2009

What comes after Tubular Cast On...Tubular Bind Off

Hope everyone had a fabulous Thanksgiving as I had. There has been knitting...and fabulous knitting if I must say so myself. Believe it or not...the Saddled Aran Sweater (now turned into a swing coat) is all knit up. Details will have to wait as I am just unpacking from a week-long travel...there are so many things about the sweater coat I love. Once blocked and with buttons...I will have a more in depth talk with you about this pattern. I love the construction, the saddled shoulders, cable work, bobbles, seed/moss, moss/seed diamond, waist/sleeve shaping, new techniques, and the button holes. But mostly, I love the preliminary try on's...

Before leaving for the holiday, I left you with a pictorial on Tubular Cast on, the Italian way. I've always felt a matching bind off is an important element in a garment’s construction. Tubular bind off with its matching cast on not only forms a beautifully rounded edge, it is a nice change from a regular bound off.

Preceding bind-off, you knit two rows in 1x1 ribbing as you would in double knitting or Tubular Cast on set-up rows:
Row 1: *K1, ytf, S1, ytb; repeat from* around.
Row 2: *Ytf, S1, ytb, K1; repeat from* around.

Now, rearrange knit stitches on a circular or double-point needle (place in front with work facing me) while purl stitches on another needle (place in back .)

Thread a darning needle (dn) with 3x the length of a edge to be bound off and kitchener graft the stitches together as follows:
To start off, bring dn through 1st stitch on front needle as if to purl and leave the stitch on.

Bring dn through 1st stitch on back needle as if to knit, and leave the stitch on the needle.

Step 1 Front needle: Bring dn through 1st st on front needle as if to knit and slip the stitch off the needle.
Bring dn through next stitch on needle as if to purl and leave the stitch on the needle.


Step
2 Back needle: Bring dn through 1st stitch on needle as if to purl and slip the stitch off the needle.
Bring dn through next stitch on back needle as if to knit and leave the stitch on the needle.

Later picture shown stitches done back-to-back

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked off.

A quick and easy way to memorize the steps:
Front needle: Knit off, purl on
Back needle: Purl off, knit on


It takes longer to bind off (flat and in-a-round;) but, the finishing is much nicer, springy, than other methods (including my favorite EZ-Sewn Bind Off.) This version is good for sock cuffs and other things that have negative ease since it really wants to be the size of slightly stretched ribbing rather than the size of totally pulled-in ribbing. After watching my favorite 9-minute video on this practical technique, get some needles, a bit of yarn, and have at it. Most importantly, have fun. Knitting is my retreat.

Another stretchy, loose, and elegant bind-off used on the sweater coat's pocket ribbing was the icelandic method. Though the video clip here is only 36 seconds, it is really all you need to acquire this technique. I learned about it in Myrna Stahman's Shawls and Scarves book:
*K 2nd stitch through first stitch’s loop. Sl both stitches off left needle together. Put new stitch on right needle back on left needle and repeat from * till 1 stitch left.

That's all, folks. Until next time...happy crafting and keep those creative juices running!

Friday, November 20, 2009

Tubular Cast On...The Italian Way

With all the cable knitting in the work, I have been exploring several versions and variations of 1x1 tubular cast on for best appearance. My favorite is this one by Chrissy of Fluffbuff, that is done over a knitting needle. Not only simple and easy--less fiddly and efficient than using waste yarn/provisional cast-on, the ribbing edge looks the best and is the stretchiest (over long-tail method.)

From the tubular cast on, I was able to make a 2x2 rib by rearranging the stitches:

Hold next purl stitch in back

...knit next stitch

...then purl the stitch held in back previously

viola...there you have it, from 1x1 tubular cast on to 2x2 rib!


Happy crafting and keep those creative juices running!